17 Days Northern Thailand Birding Tour from Bangkok to Chiang Mai

THAILAND – The Ultimate specialities tour from North to South
Birdquest’s Thailand birding tours explore a classic Southeast Asian birding destination that not only has a very rich avifauna but also very friendly people, beautiful landscapes and some of the best food in the world. Our Ultimate Thailand birding tour produces more of the country’s specialities than any other tour, ranging from migrant Spoon-billed Sandpipers and Nordmann’s Greenshanks to gorgeous pittas and secretive pheasants.

Undoubtedly one of the most fascinating countries in Southeast Asia, Thailand offers some of the region’s very best birding, including a long list of specialities and some of the most exciting shorebird watching in all Asia. An extremely rich resident Oriental avifauna, ranging from huge hornbills to diminutive flowerpeckers, is supplemented during the northern winter by an influx of migrants from northern Asia, including a fine selection of waders and passerines. Thailand has a superb network of reserves containing representative examples of every major habitat from lowland rainforest to montane evergreen forest and high altitude, moss-encrusted rhododendron thickets.

This beautiful country with its diverse ethnic groupings, much revered, age-old monarchy and rich cultural heritage has great appeal for the traveller as well as the birdwatcher. This is one of our favourite tours, a journey through an exotic, vibrant land that has an infinite capacity to delight and surprise the visitor.

TOUR HIGHLIGHTS

  • Seeing one of the world’s rarest and most extraordinary waders; the incomparable Spoon-billed Sandpiper
  • Huge numbers of East Asian flyway waders including the highly-sought Asian Dowitcher, Nordmann’s Greenshank and Great Knot
  • Incredible hides at Kaeng Krachan where rarities such as Blue Pitta, Ferruginous Partridge and Grey Peacock-Pheasant often flaunt themselves
  • Amazing mixed flocks of White-crested, Lesser Necklaced and Greater Necklaced Laughingthrushes at close range
  • Stunning Silver Pheasants and Siamese Firebacks in Khao Yai with the evocative chorus of gibbons in the background
  • The highly range restricted (Rufous) Limestone Wren-Babbler
  • Stunning specialities of the far northwest, including the amazing Giant Nuthatch, charismatic Spot-breasted Parrotbill and gorgeous Scarlet-faced Liocichla
  • Confiding birds around the feeding stations on Doi Lang, including amazing Ultramarine Flycatchers and glittering Siberian Rubythroats
  • A chance to see tricky gamebirds such as the superb Hume’s Pheasant and the shy Mountain Bamboo Partridge
  • The glorious waterfalls and scenery of Doi Inthanon, Thailand’s highest mountain, complete with forktails, redstarts and whistling thrushes
  • A chance to see the Critically Endangered Yellow-breasted Bunting which still winters in much reduced numbers
  • Doi Inthanon’s amazing summit marsh with confiding Rufous-throated Partridges, Dark-sided Thrushes and much, much more
  • Dry forests with stunning Black-headed Woodpeckers and the rare White-rumped Falcon
  • An intimate encounter with confiding but genuinely wild Green Peafowl
  • The magical mangroves of Krabi, complete with Mangrove Pittas and a plethora of kingfishers
  • The absolutely gorgeous Malayan Banded Pittas of Si Phang Nga – surely one of the planet’s best!
  • Enjoying great accommodation and stunning Thai cuisine and hospitality throughout

OUTLINE ITINERARY

  • Day 1: Morning tour start at Bangkok airport. Drive via Pak Thale to Laem Phak Bia.
  • Day 2: Pak Thale and Laem Phak Bia, then drive to Kaeng Krachan.
  • Days 3-4: Kaeng Krachan National Park.
  • Day 5: Drive to Khao Yai.
  • Days 6-7: Khao Yai National Park.
  • Day 8: Drive to Bangkok airport. Flight to Chiang Mai. Drive to Chiang Dao.
  • Day 9: Chiang Dao, then transfer to Fang.
  • Days 10-12: Doi Ang Khang, Doi Lang and Thaton. Overnights at Fang.
  • Day 13: Drive to Li.
  • Day 14: Ban Mae Ping, then drive to Chom Thong near Doi Inthanon.
  • Days 15-16: Doi Inthanon. Overnights at Chom Thong.
  • Day 17: Drive to Chiang Mai airport. Flight to Bangkok for late morning tour end.

Thailand: Day 1  Our Thailand birding tour begins this morning at Bangkok international airport.

From Bangkok, we will drive southwestwards to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand at Pak Thale, an area of marshy pools, mangroves, mudflats, shrimp ponds and saltpans.

The numbers and diversity of wintering waders from northern Asia make a visit to this area an exciting experience. Best of all, the rare Spoon-billed Sandpiper has begun wintering in this area in recent years and it is quite possible to see up to five or more of these bizarre little waders here. Our second main quarry will be the rare Nordmann’s Greenshank, an endangered species whose world population is estimated to be just 1000 birds. Nordmann’s Greenshank breeds in the remote forest bogs of northern Sakhalin island and on the adjacent shores of the bleak Sea of Okhotsk and winters or migrates through scattered sites across southern Asia, this being one of the most accessible and reliable. Great Knot is regularly present and we also have a good chance of picking up the rare Asian Dowitcher, which migrates through the Gulf of Thailand at this time of year.

More numerous and widespread species include Black-winged Stilt, Little Ringed, Kentish, Greater Sand, Mongolian, Grey (or Black-bellied) and Pacific Golden Plovers, Eurasian Curlew, Black-tailed Godwit, Marsh, Wood, Common, Terek, Broad-billed and Curlew Sandpipers, Ruddy Turnstone, Common Greenshank, Common and Spotted Redshanks, and Red-necked, Temminck’s and Long-toed Stints.

Amongst the other species we are likely to see in this area, or during today’s journey, are Little Cormorant, Little, Great, Intermediate and Eastern Cattle Egrets, Grey, Purple and Striated (or Little) Herons, Chinese and Javan Pond Herons, Black-crowned Night Heron, Black-shouldered and Brahminy Kites, Slaty-breasted Rail, White-breasted Waterhen, Common Moorhen, Brown-headed Gull, Gull-billed and Whiskered Terns, Spotted, Peaceful and Red Collared Doves, Asian Koel, Asian Palm-Swift, House Swift, Common, Black-capped and Collared Kingfishers, Blue-tailed Bee-eater and Indochinese Roller.

Passerines include Barn Swallow, Streak-eared and Yellow-vented Bulbuls, Oriental Magpie-Robin (the emblem of the Bangkok Bird Club), Siberian Stonechat, Golden-bellied Gerygone (this sole Asian representative of an otherwise Australo-Papuan family inhabits the mangrove scrubland), Plain Prinia, Common Tailorbird, Oriental Reed and Dusky Warblers, Pied Fantail, Asian Pied and Black-collared Starlings, Common and White-vented Mynas, Black Drongo, Long-tailed Shrike, Eastern Jungle Crow, Olive-backed Sunbird and Eurasian Tree and Plain-backed Sparrows.

We will spend the night at nearby Laem Phak Bia (or Laem Pak Bia).

Thailand: Day 2  This morning we will again visit Pak Thale and also an area of mangrove creeks, saltpans and a sandy spit at Laem Phak Bia, where we should find roosting Greater Crested, Lesser Crested, Caspian, Common and Little Terns, and a number of wintering Lesser Black-backed Gulls (of the interesting form taimyrensis, which may represent a hybrid population with Vega Gull). With luck, we will find a Pallas’s (or Great Black-headed) or a Black-tailed Gull as well. The two most exciting species here are the increasingly rare Malaysian Plover and White-faced Plover, the latter now recognized as a distinct species that differs subtly in appearance from Kentish Plover. We may also see Pacific Reef Heron, Eurasian Whimbrel and Bar-tailed Godwit.

Afterwards, we continue on our way to Kaeng Krachan National Park for a three nights stay.

En-route, we shall stop and examine some roadside paddies and marshes where we might well find White-throated Kingfisher, Asian Green Bee-eater, Paddyfield Pipit and Brown Shrike. Vinous-breasted Starling is also possible.

Thailand: Days 3-4  Kaeng Krachan National Park is situated on the eastern side of the remote Tenasserim mountain range near the Burmese border. The National Park was established in 1981, after a visit to the area by the King of Thailand, and is the largest in the country, over 3000 square kilometres (1158 square miles) in extent, encompassing a wide range of forest habitats and possessing the richest forest avifauna in the entire country.

We will concentrate mainly on the impressive evergreen forest, which is bisected by a road some 36 kilometres (22 miles) long which enables us to gain easy access and enjoy some tremendous scenic views. In the early morning, we will try to find fruiting trees where pigeons, barbets, bulbuls and leafbirds come to feed. The sound of swan-like wing beats will alert us to Wreathed Hornbills passing overhead, while flashes of scarlet and gold against a blue sky materialize into a flock of delicate Scarlet Minivets. Brown-backed Needletails zip over the canopy at breathtaking speed whilst a plaintive cry echoes across the forest as a Crested Serpent Eagle soars high into the air.

Deep in the forest, we will creep silently through the tangle of vegetation, dwarfed by the immense trees that tower above us. A flash of colour in this green world may signal an Orange-breasted or Red-headed Trogon swooping up onto a low branch. We will listen carefully for a scuffling amongst the dead leaves on the forest floor that might lead us to any of the shyer but regularly observed ground-dwelling specialities such as the Kalij Pheasant, Grey Peacock-Pheasant, Bar-backed and Scaly-breasted Partridges, Blue Pitta and Large Scimitar Babbler. Other exciting specialities also occur here and in particular, we shall be looking out for Southern Brown (or Rufous-cheeked) Hornbill and Ratchet-tailed Treepie (only relatively recently discovered here, far to the west of its known range). By checking the dead trees we should find Bay Woodpecker and the impressive Great Slaty Woodpecker, while Collared Babblers utter their harsh chattering from the dense bamboo. Gorgeous Blue-bearded Bee-eaters and Banded Kingfishers add to the attractions of this amazing park.

Amongst the many other birds which we may well encounter during our stay here are Crested Goshawk, Shikra, Oriental (or Crested) Honey Buzzard, Rufous-bellied and Black Eagles, Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Black-thighed Falconet, Red Junglefowl, Red-wattled Lapwing, Emerald Dove, Thick-billed Green Pigeon, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Vernal Hanging-Parrot (whose appearance is heralded by its scratchy ‘see-sip’ flight note), Plaintive and Square-tailed Drongo Cuckoos, Green-billed and Chestnut-breasted Malkohas, Greater Coucal, Spotted, Asian Barred and Collared Owlets, Large-tailed Nightjar, Fork-tailed (or Pacific) Swift, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, Dollarbird, Oriental Pied Hornbill, the impressive Great Hornbill, Great, Green-eared, Red-throated, Golden-throated, Blue-throated, Moustached and Blue-eared Barbets, Greater Yellownape, Streak-breasted and Grey-headed Woodpeckers, and Common and Greater Flamebacks.

Passerines include Dusky, Banded, Silver-breasted and gorgeous Long-tailed Broadbills (all of which build suspended nests, sometimes over a road), Striated Swallow, the smart Forest Wagtail, Grey Wagtail, Olive-backed Pipit, Bar-winged Flycatcher-Shrike, Large Woodshrike, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, Ashy and Rosy Minivets, Common and Great Ioras, Greater Green and Blue-winged Leafbirds, Asian Fairy Bluebird, Black-crested, Stripe-throated, Flavescent, Ochraceous, Buff-vented, Ashy and Mountain Bulbuls, White-rumped Shama, Dark-necked Tailorbird, Radde’s, Yellow-browed, Yellow-bellied and Plain-tailed Warblers, Dark-sided, Asian Brown, Verditer, Taiga and Hill Blue Flycatchers, the skulking Rufous-browed Flycatcher, Black-naped Monarch, Asian Paradise Flycatcher, Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush, White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Buff-breasted, Puff-throated, Rufous-fronted and Spot-necked Babblers, Striped Tit-Babbler, Brown-cheeked Fulvetta, Ashy, Bronzed, Hair-crested, Lesser Racket-tailed and Greater Racket-tailed Drongos, Black-naped Oriole, Common Green Magpie, Grey and Racket-tailed Treepies, Sultan Tit, Velvet-fronted Nuthatch, Ashy Woodswallow, Crimson Sunbird, Streaked Spiderhunter, Everett’s White-eye, and White-rumped and Scaly-breasted Munias.

We should also see a few of the more uncommon denizens of Kaeng Krachan, which include Bar-backed Partridge, Great Eared Nightjar, Red-bearded Bee-eater, Black-and-yellow Broadbill, Swinhoe’s (or Brown-rumped) and Grey-chinned Minivets, Lesser Necklaced and Black-throated Laughingthrushes, the charismatic Crested Jay, Fire-breasted (or Buff-bellied) Flowerpecker and Spectacled Spiderhunter. If we are in luck, we will come across one or two of the rarer or most elusive specialities of the area, which include Ferruginous Partridge, Yellow-vented Green Pigeon, White-fronted Scops Owl, the rare Plain-pouched Hornbill, Bamboo Woodpecker, the extraordinary Eared Pitta, the remarkable but rare Giant Pitta, and the equally elusive Rusty-naped Pitta.

Mammals are quite conspicuous by Southeast Asian standards and we should see White-handed Gibbon, Dusky Leaf Monkey and Black Giant Squirrel, and perhaps Indian (or Asian) Elephant.

Thailand: Day 5  Today we will head for Khao Yai National Park, where we will spend the next three nights.

As we skirt Bangkok en route, we will stop at some marshy areas to look for Cinnamon and Yellow Bitterns, Ruddy-breasted Crake, Bronze-winged Jacana and Asian Golden and Baya Weavers.

Afterwards, the journey takes us through cultivated lowlands northeast of Bangkok where duck herders tend their huge flocks on roadside pools. We will keep a lookout for Asian Openbill along the way. As we approach Khao Yai the fields give way to scrub and then to tall evergreen forest as we approach the hills, where we will visit a site for the localized Limestone Wren-Babbler.

Thailand: Days 6-7  Khao Yai National Park protects an extensive area of forested mountains and open grassland in central Thailand, Walking the trails of Khao Yai is an unforgettable experience. Here the forest giants are quite stupendous: supported by huge buttress roots, some tower over 70m above ground level and even the average canopy height is some 50m. In areas where the forest floor is open one has the feeling of being inside some vast natural cathedral. Strangler figs entwine the trunks, vines and creepers hang down from the branches and brilliantly coloured butterflies flash through shafts of sunlight filtering down through the green canopy above. The incessant ‘took-arrook’ of barbets and the whine of giant cicadas is broken from time to time by the whooping cries of a troop of White-handed Gibbons. From time to time a faint twittering heralds the approach of a mixed feeding flock of anything up to a dozen or more bird species.

During our visit to Khao Yai, we will be concentrating on a number of specialities that are easier here than at Kaeng Krachan, or not found at that locality.

Along the trails that penetrate deep inside the forest, we have a good chance of encountering a Banded Kingfisher perched quietly on a branch and a fair probability of coming across a Blue Pitta bounding along a path. We shall also spend some time watching the forest edge as Siamese Firebacks regularly venture out onto the roads in the early morning (as occasionally do Silver Pheasants), and we also have a fair chance of encountering the shy and much sought-after Coral-billed Ground Cuckoo.

Grassy clearings hold Bright-capped Cisticolas, while streams and waterfalls harbour White-crowned Forktails (and occasionally even the uncommon Blue-eared Kingfisher). Other birds we are likely to encounter during our visit include Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Puff-throated and Grey-eyed Bulbuls, Abbott’s Babbler, the vociferous White-crested Laughingthrush, White-bellied Yuhina, Pale-legged Leaf and Sulphur-breasted Warblers, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Hill Myna, Plain Flowerpecker and Oriental White-eye.

We should also find two or three of the more uncommon or elusive species, which include Changeable Hawk-Eagle, Black-and-buff Woodpecker, the handsome Heart-spotted Woodpecker, Orange-headed Thrush, the handsome White-throated Rock Thrush, Golden-crested Myna, and Thick-billed and Yellow-vented Flowerpeckers.

As so often in Southeast Asia, mammals are not conspicuous but we may well see Sambar, Indian Muntjac, Pigtail Macaque and Black Giant Squirrel, whilst if we are lucky we will come across Indian Elephant. As the light fades Brown Boobooks emerge from cover.

Thailand: Day 8  Today we will return to Bangkok and catch an afternoon flight to Chiang Mai in northern Thailand. From there we drive to our lodge near the small market town of Chiang Dao for an overnight stay.

Thailand: Day 9  This morning we will visit an area that surrounds a temple at the foot of Doi Chiang Dao, a magnificent massif that vaults abruptly out of neatly cultivated plains. These northern mountains and plains possess a very different avifauna from the rest of Thailand as it includes many Palearctic-Himalayan species at the edge of their distribution.

At lowe altitudes, as around Chiang Dao, the habitat is mostly a mixture of deciduous woodland broken by fields, orchards and extensive stands of bamboo. This is a good area for finding Streaked Wren-Babbler hopping among the limestone outcrops, while in tall forest trees we may find Pin-tailed Green Pigeon, Banded Bay Cuckoo, the elegant Crested Treeswift and Black-headed Oriole. In denser parts of the woodland, we may well find Great Iora, Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher, Buff-breasted and Grey-throated Babblers, and Purple-naped Sunbird. If we are lucky we will encounter one or two of the more uncommon species, which include Red-headed and Orange-breasted Trogons, Rusty-naped Pitta and Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler.

From here, we will drive to Fang district for a four nights stay.

Thailand: Days 10-12  The rugged frontier range known as Doi Ang Khang, a fascinating but largely deforested place, is inhabited by descendants of Chinese nationalists who fled China during the communist revolution and by hill people belonging to the Black Lahu ethnic group. The area is now only partially cultivated (long ago there used to be a thriving opium poppy industry here) and it shares its distinctive scenery and avifauna with the Shan States of adjacent Myanmar (or Burma).

At Doi Ang Khang, we will be concentrating on some species that have a restricted distribution, extending from northern Thailand into Myanmar and China, including Crested Finchbill, Brown-breasted Bulbul, White-browed Laughingthrush, Spot-breasted Parrotbill and the wintering Buff-throated Warbler.

Other species regularly encountered here include Mountain Hawk-Eagle, the diminutive Speckled Piculet, Stripe-breasted Woodpecker, Striated Greenbul, Silver-eared Mesia, Dark-backed Sibia, the delightful little Slaty-bellied Tesia, Hill Prinia and Mountain Tailorbird, while we also have a chance for White-browed Piculet, Daurian Redstart, the skulking White-tailed Robin and, with a lot of luck, the rare Rufous-headed Parrotbill.

Other species we may well encounter at Doi Ang Khang (or at Doi Lang) include Large Hawk-Cuckoo, Himalayan Swiftlet, Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Lesser Yellownape, Asian House Martin, Maroon and Slender-billed Orioles, Long-tailed Minivet, Ashy, Sooty-headed, Mountain and Black Bulbuls, Chestnut-vented Nuthatch, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Striated Yuhina, Blyth’s Shrike-babbler, Blue-winged Minla, Davison’s Leaf and Hume’s Leaf Warblers, Grey-crowned, Martens’s and Bianchi’s Warblers, Slaty-backed, Little Pied and Pale Blue Flycatchers, Grey and Pied Bushchats, Common Rosefinch, Mrs Gould’s and Black-throated Sunbirds, Chestnut-flanked and Warbling White-eyes, and Chestnut Bunting.

Further along the mountainous ridge that divides Thailand from Myanmar is Doi Lang. This area has only become accessible in relatively recent times and here we can look for a number of species that are only known, in Thailand, from this remote corner.

There are patches of forest on the steep hillsides where we have a good chance to see the shy, restricted-range Mrs Hume’s Pheasant as they emerge onto the roads in the early morning. Another great bird here is the impressive, restricted-range Giant Nuthatch, as big as a medium-sized woodpecker, which we should find high in the crown of a big pine, clambering along the lichen-covered branches. Another much sought-after bird of the area is the restricted-range Mountain Bamboo Partridge, which also visits the roadsides in the early morning.

The bird list for Doi Lang is steadily growing and among the other birds we may well find are Eurasian Hoopoe, Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Large Cuckooshrike, Grey Treepie, Japanese Tit, Whiskered Yuhina, Grey-headed and Spot-breasted Parrotbills, the gorgeous Scarlet-faced Liocichla, Spectacled Barwing, Hume’s (or Manipur) Treecreeper, Black-throated Bushtit, White-bellied Redstart, White-gorgeted, Rufous-gorgeted and Sapphire Flycatchers, Aberrant Bush Warbler, Chinese Leaf Warbler, Asian Stubtail and Spot-winged Grosbeak. There are also possibilities for Rusty-naped Pitta, Chestnut-bellied Rock Thrush, Himalayan Cutia, Spot-breasted Laughingthrush, Chestnut-headed Tesia, Crested Bunting and even a roosting Hodgson’s Frogmouth. If we are extremely lucky we will even come across the restricted-range Red-tailed Laughingthrush.

In colder winters further north, migrant thrushes appear and these could include Chestnut and Black-breasted Thrushes and Grey-winged Blackbird.

We will also visit Thaton, a small town on the Kok river where it flows out of Burma and the site of a large golden Buddha perched on a hillside. Here, we will explore some rather open areas of agricultural land at the confluence of the Kok and Fang rivers where we will have an opportunity to look for species typical of the marshy plains and rice-stubble fields at this season including Lesser Whistling Duck, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers, Grey-headed Lapwing, Temminck’s Stint, Pin-tailed Snipe, Horsfield’s (or Australasian) Bush Lark, Citrine Wagtail, Chestnut-capped Babbler, Lanceolated Warbler, Yellow-bellied Prinia, Striated Grassbird, Siberian Rubythroat, Bluethroat and Brown Shrike. Less regularly observed species include Barred Buttonquail, Oriental Skylark, Zitting Cisticola, Yellow-eyed Babbler, Black-faced Bunting and the nowadays very uncommon Yellow-breasted Bunting.

Thailand: Day 13  After some final birding in northernmost Thailand we will head southwards to Li for an overnight stay.

We will stop along the way in order to visit an area where a healthy population of Green Peafowl has been discovered. Much persecuted over most of their range, they have thrived here in recent years in secondary forest.

Thailand: Day 14  Today, at Ban Mae Ping National Park, we will explore stands of dry deciduous woodland that covers the low ridges. Here we will find a selection of birds that is very different from the avifauna of the dark evergreen forest higher up in the hills. Mornings resound with the calls of Lineated Barbets, while uncommon White-bellied and Black-headed Woodpeckers can be found alongside Common Flamebacks. Lively calls from the treetops betray the presence of Black-hooded Orioles, Golden-fronted Leafbirds and Common Woodshrikes, and sometimes both Grey-headed and Blossom-headed Parakeets, while other species found here include Coppersmith Barbet, Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Burmese (or Neglected) Nuthatch and the scarce Spot-breasted Woodpecker. Chinese Francolin occurs in the area but is much more often heard than seen. As the day heats up raptors take to the wing and we should see Collared Falconet and the striking Black Baza, and probably Rufous-winged Buzzard, but we will count ourselves very fortunate if we encounter the rare White-rumped Falcon.

Later we will continue to Chom Thong, a small market town situated in agricultural land at the base of Doi Inthanon, where we will stay for three nights.

Thailand: Days 15-16  Doi Inthanon National Park is a large reserve protecting the forests of Doi Inthanon (2565m), Thailand’s highest mountain. The birdlife of this great mountain changes dramatically as one ascends from low to high altitudes. In the lower zones, the avifauna has a close similarity to that of Doi Chiang Dao, but at higher levels, it is subtly different in character and this divergence increases nearer to the summit. Species that we will concentrate upon will be those that are characteristic of higher altitudes, together with some scarcer species that occur only at lower levels.

At the summit of Doi Inthanon, where a sphagnum bog is surrounded by rhododendron trees draped in hanging moss and decorated with beautiful orchids and epiphytes, we should encounter some species found in Thailand only at the highest altitudes. Here the delightful Pygmy Cupwing bounces along fallen logs, colourful Chestnut-tailed Minlas and Rufous-winged Fulvettas search for insects on the lichen-encrusted trees, Silver-eared Laughingthrushes, White-browed Shortwings and Himalayan Bluetails patrol the edges of the bog, the shy Dark-sided Thrush digs into the damp leaf litter with its huge bill, Ashy-throated Warblers and Snowy-browed Flycatchers flick through the undergrowth, Yellow-bellied Fantails forage below the canopy and jewel-like Gould’s and Green-tailed Sunbirds (and rarely Yellow-bellied Flowerpeckers) visit the deep red rhododendron flowers.

If we are lucky, we will come across one or two of the shyer or more uncommon inhabitants of the summit, which include Rufous-throated Partridge, Ashy Wood Pigeon, Scaly Thrush and Yellow-browed Tit.

The huge trees of the montane evergreen forest stretch away from the road in great sylvan swathes. Here, Large Niltavas utter their haunting notes from dark recesses, while high in the trees Vivid Niltavas perch quietly. As we creep along tracks cut through this green wonderland, loose flocks of babblers and other birds will appear around us from time to time, with Grey-throated Babblers, Clicking Shrike-babblers and Grey-cheeked Fulvettas mixing with Chestnut-crowned and Blyth’s Leaf Warblers and handsome Yellow-cheeked Tits.

In more open areas, or along the forest edge, we may find Short-billed Minivet, Spectacled Barwing and Rufous-backed Sibia, while closely scrutinizing fruiting trees is a must as Speckled Woodpigeons and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons feed in the canopy (although both can be hard to find). If we are lucky we will bump into the secretive Black-tailed Crake or a small flock of shy, restricted-range White-necked Laughingthrushes or a group of Black-throated Parrotbills.

This is the prime season for trying to find the elusive Purple and Green Cochoas, as they tend to be more vocal at this time of year and thus give themselves away notwithstanding their tendency to sit motionless in the canopy. We have a fair chance of seeing Green Cochoa on the tour, but Purple Cochoa is very hard to find. Other species in this zone include the retiring White-gorgeted Flycatcher, Rufous-bellied Niltava and the restricted-range Hume’s (or Manipur) Treecreeper, while there is also a slim chance for Eyebrowed Wren-Babbler.

Lower down we will find that man has laid his hand heavily on the mountain, but amongst the scrubby edges, grassy areas and cultivation we may find the striking and very localized White-headed Bulbul, Grey-breasted and Rufescent Prinias and Grey-backed and Burmese Shrikes. Still lower on the mountain, rushing streams and beautiful waterfalls are home to shy Black-backed and Slaty-backed Forktails and bold Plumbeous and White-capped Water Redstarts.

The influx of winter visitors varies considerably from year to year, but we should see Eyebrowed Thrush and possibly a rarity such as Chestnut Thrush or Grey-sided Thrush.

Our accommodation is situated in very pleasant surroundings right at the foot of the mountain and here we should find Asian Barred and Spotted Owlets, Rufous Treepie and Purple Sunbird.

Thailand: Day 17  Today we will return to Chiang Mai and catch a flight to Bangkok, where the main section of our Thailand birding tour ends in the late morning.